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Что такое селективная парфюмерия: раскрываем особенности и развенчиваем мифы

Селективная или нишевая парфюмерия — высшее искусство в мире дизайнерских ароматов. Весь парфюм можно разделить на три основных типа: масс-маркет, селективный и люксовый. Нишевые ароматы выпускают ограниченными сериями — от 200 до 400 экземпляров, масс-маркет начинается с 3000, а люксовые делаются “под заказ”. Трудятся над ними самые популярные парфюмерные дома, а выпуск такого аромата всегда шоу со звездами первой величины.

Чем отличаются селективные духи от других? Их создают не ориентируясь на конкретного потребителя. Парфюмер получает полную свободу — он использует абсолютно любые ингредиенты и не думает о финансах. Главное — его фантазия. А задача такого аромата — оставить яркое впечатление. Селективные духи можно или любить, или ненавидеть. Они шокируют, вдохновляют, отталкивают, влюбляют, но никогда не оставляют равнодушными.


Миф №1. Ароматы в селективной парфюмерии не такие приятные

По умолчанию в селективной парфюмерии используется натуральное сырье, которое стоит дороже синтетического, но зато не вредит здоровью при регулярном использовании — в отличие от полностью синтетических потоковых духов. Отсюда и растут корни мифа. Якобы такие ароматы всегда неприятные и резкие. Профессиональные парфюмеры объясняют неоднозначное отношение клиентов к селективным духам просто — мы слишком привыкли к синтетическим запахам. Натуральный мозг воспринимает как нечто слишком сложное, а потому отталкивающее.

Именно поэтому любви “с первого вдоха” ждать не стоит. Аромат должен раскрыться, а вы к нему — привыкнуть. Даже культовые Chanel №5 были сделаны на трёх алифатических альдегидах, безусловно, синтетических.

Миф №2.  Натуральные ароматы менее стойкие, чем синтетические

Еще один миф связан с тем, что натуральные ароматы не могут быть столь же стойкими, как синтетические. Это не совсем так, поскольку стойкость аромата зависит только от летучести вещества и веса его молекул. Поэтому среди натуральных ароматов встречаются очень стойкие, например, мускус, сандал, а вот бергамот и цитрус испаряются за полчаса. Но такая же взаимосвязь прослеживается и в “ненатуральных”.

Миф №3. Нишевые ароматы раскрываются на всех по-разному, в отличие от масс-маркета

Многие думают, что натуральные духи пахнут по-разному на разных людях, в то время, как «масс-маркет» на всех – одинаково. Доля правды в этом есть. Но истина где-то посередине: дело не в составе, а в физиологических особенностях тела. Все зависит от индивидуальной температуры, влажности, давления, состояния кожи. Некоторые компоненты растворяются в жировой ткани — это замедляет испарение. А еще не забывайте и о собственном запахе, который немного меняет оригинальный аромат.


Настоящие асы парфюмерии сводят слияние таких факторов к минимуму, потому что их задача — дать почувствовать клиенту творение в полную силу. Независимо от исключительных факторов.

Найти свой идеальный парфюм — дело исключительное, тонкое и сложное. Наш организм — штука непростая. Одни просто не различают глубокие нюансы ароматов, другие быстро привыкают к запахам и через 5 минут не чувствуют духи, которые только что нанесли, третьи равнодушны к парфюму. Поэтому к выбору нужно подходить ответственно, но творчески. Не бойтесь экспериментировать с составляющими аромата, выходите за рамки привычных любимых духов и помните — главное, чтобы парфюм нравился вам. Пусть он заставляет вас чувствовать себя на все сто.


Текст — Анастасия Бурмистрова

Иллюстратор — Lily Tiho

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