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Ставший всем: жизнь и судьба Аззедина Алайи

Аззедин Алайя стал кумиром своей эпохи. Он не считался со временем, изменяющимися обстоятельствами или требованиями акционеров у него было собственное мнение: мнение, ставшее воплощением идеалов эпохи.

Будущий знаменитый французский дизайнер тунисского происхождения родился в 1939 году в семье фермера. Такое, казалось бы, неблагородное происхождение не помешало будущему кутюрье моды встать в один ранг с такими всемирно известными именами, как Кристиан Диор, Ив Сен-Лоран и многими другими модельерами.

Еще в раннем возрасте Аззедин заинтересовался искусством и дизайном. Мадам Пино, акушерка семьи Алайя, стала проводником мальчика в мир прекрасного: именно она дала ему первые брошюры к художественным выставкам и биографию Пикассо, а также против воли отца привела его в École des Beaux-Arts.

В 1957 Аззедин Алайя перебирается в Париж и начинает работать в Dior, вскоре закончив сотрудничество с модным домом из-за военного конфликта, возникшего между Францией и Алжиром. Последующая работа в Guy Laroche и Charles Jourdan, а также сотрудничество с Николь де Блежье привела Аззедина к мысли о создании собственного бренда, что и произошло в 1980 году, когда дизайнер официально заявил о создании новой марки, запатентовав бренд Azzedine Alaia, а также представил первую коллекцию на Rue De Bellechasse.

Случай — так, пожалуй, можно охарактеризовать жизнь модельера. Именно он помог творениям молодого (и пока еще не известного дизайнера) попасть на прилавки знаменитых американских универмагов.

Женское тело — вот что по-настоящему ценил АззединАлайя. Женское тело было возведено в культ, а одежда дизайнера подчеркивала и выгодно его оттеняла. Работы мэтра были подобны процессу создания скульптуры: идеально отточенные формы платьев-корсетов, четкость линий жакетов, утонченность и женственность юбок-карандашей — именно такие средства были в арсенале Аззедина во время созданий будущих коллекций.

«Король облегающего силуэта» — так нередко называли дизайнера за его любовь к строгим формам. Эластичные же ткани и кожа стали любимыми материалами Аззедина, которые вместе со скульптурными силуэтами платьев были олицетворением изящества и гибкости женского тела.

Алайя не считался с законами и устоями модного мира: он сам диктовал их. Он напрочь отказался подчиняться календарности показов, демонстрируя свои коллекции только тогда, когда они были готовы. Да ему и не следовало пресмыкаться перед миром моды: сама мода шла и тянулась к нему. Его работы были настолько уникальны и неповторимы, что давало возможность Аззедину Алайе собственноручно писать историю мира моды.

Графиня Николь де Блежье, Клодетт Кольбер, Грета Гарбо, Хелена Кристенсен, Линда Евангелиста, Иман, Стефани Сеймур, Наоми Кэмпбелл… Самые яркие девушки разных десятилетий сотрудничали и тесно дружили с Аззедином Алайя. Это ли не успех? Однако ему и этого было мало: он работал сутками напролет, спал по 2-3 часа и все ради одного —чтобы мода оставалась модой, а не ее подобием.

Для Алайи мода была больше, чем просто одежда. Мода стала неким символом: символом культуры, в котором образ и красота оставались «страшной силой». И как бы то ни было, АззединАлайя останется в наших сердцах как главный эстет и любитель красоты женского тела.


Текст — Андрей Садов

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