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Брюгге: город шоколада и набалдашников 

Залечь на дно, как это сделал герой сами знаете какого фильма, в Брюгге не получится. Во всяком случае летом. Этот городок, застывший в Средневековье, насквозь туристический. И в этом фильм виноват лишь отчасти. Брюгге еще во второй половине 19 века стал одним из первых направлений для массового туризма. И с тех пор мало что изменилось. Тревел-журналист Наталья Майборода («Вокруг света», National Geographic, GEO, Forbes) побывала в этом бельгийском городе чтобы выяснить, что же всех сюда так манит.

От ж/д вокзала до отеля всего 20 минут пешком. За это время я успеваю пройти весь город, пересекая его с юга на север. Уже у пункта назначения понимаю зачем в Брюгге так много магазинов чемоданов. Пройти испытание брусчаткой, которой щедро устелен город, могут не все колеса. Я бросаю вещи в крошечной комнате, которая принимает посетителей не одну сотню лет, и скорее бегу изучать столицу Западной Фландрии.

У главной площади, Гроте маркт (Grote markt), негде яблоку упасть. Пожалуй, это самое многолюдное место Брюгге. Я тороплюсь его покинуть, чтобы вернуться сюда ближе к десяти вечера. В это время площадь пустынна, и можно рассмотреть острые шапки домов, а также услышать свой собственный шепот. И робкий лай заблудившейся собаки. Кстати, котов в Брюгге почему-то нет. Скорее всего, они боятся каналов. Коих здесь, стоит признаться, немного.

Самый крупный из них опоясывает исторический центр, а остальные – поменьше, изящно обвивают средневековые постройки таким образом, что кажется, будто город состоит из множества островов. На самом деле их можно пересчитать по пальцам. И сделать это можно с одной из самых высоких построек города – 83-метровой колокольни Белфорт (1240), что на главной площади. Я выбираю, как мне кажется, самое правильно время для ее посещения – после обеда. Все, кто хотел отстоять длинную очередь уже это сделали, а кому надоело ждать, пошел обедать. И после сытного ланча уже мало кому захочется преодолевать 366 ступенек.

С высоты хорошо видна ажурная структура города. А если подпрыгнуть, можно увидеть под собой главную площадь, которую крепко обнимают разноцветные домики. А чтобы заметить современный порт, и прыгать не нужно. Как и Северное море, до которого отсюда километров двадцать. Именно близость к морю превратила Брюгге в популярный торговый перекресток. Так случилось, что в 12 веке шторм размыл побережье, после чего Брюгге получил свою гавань. Но экономический подъем закончился в 16 веке, когда канал, соединяющий город и море, обмелел. Благодаря этому Брюгге заснул на несколько веков, а нам достался один из наиболее сохраненных средневековых городов.

К слову, сдаю вам секретный адрес – самую древнюю церковь города (12 век). Ее руины бережно спрятаны от посторонних глаз в подвале отеля Crowne Plaza на площади Бург. В свой бесплатный «музей» пускают всех, не только постояльцев. И еще одно секретное место – во всяком случае мне его посоветовали бельгийцы – старейшая таверна Брюгге Vlissinghe. Она работает с 1515 года (!). Здесь стоит выпить знаменитое бельгийское пиво: самодостаточное аббатское, редкое трапистское, кислый ламбик или сладкий крик. Только помните, что таверна закрывается в 22:00.

И тогда, как по взмаху волшебной палочки, город пустеет. И становится только вашим. Все эти очаровательные готические домики со слегка наклоненными фасадами, глянцевые каналы, в которых давно дремлют утки – все это Брюгге дарит вам. До утра. А утром городом опять будут наслаждаться туристы. На узких улочках смешаются разные языки мира. Но вы не будете этого замечать. Так как город уже вам открылся.

Ах да, вы спросите, а при чем здесь шоколад и набалдашники? Все просто. В Брюгге все перила, поручни и ограды не заканчиваются грубым срезом, а превращаются в драконов, львов и других замысловатых зверьков. А шоколад? По Брюгге разбросаны более пяти десятков шоколадных лавок. Поэтому шоколадом здесь пропитан воздух. И средневековьем. Но шоколадом все же больше.


Текст, фото — Наталья Майборода

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