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2017: год феминизма в моде?

Какими были самые громкие тренды за прошедшие полгода? Рюши, воланы, платья-комбинации, открытые плечи, летящие силуэты, розовый и красный, плиссе, прозрачные ткани… Не кажется ли это вам подозрительным, в смысле чересчур женственным? Давайте вспомним все и поразмыслим на этот счёт.

Год начался с того, что в январе все начали скупать футболки с феминистическими высказываниями, как у Dior. Чуть позже эту тенденцию подхватил и масс-маркет с лозунгами в стиле «Female forever». Получается, Мария Грация Кьюри — первая женщина среди креативных директоров Dior, — ввела со своей первой коллекции моду на феминизм? Даже скорее на активную позицию и демонстрацию этой самой позиции.

Далее прошло несколько громких women’s маршей, где женщины не самыми скромными высказываниями пытались отстоять и защитить свои (и не только) права. Волна прокатилась по всему миру, женщины стали облачаться в подобные футболки, сочетая их с новым трендом: воланы и рюши. Тут и там возникали похожие силуэты, а количество оборок превышало все мыслимые и немыслимые пределы (о местах их возникновения можно даже и не говорить, ведь те оказывались ещё более неожиданными). Мы ни в коем случае не говорим, что это плохо, нет, наоборот. Можно наконец вздохнуть с облегчением, ведь быть хрупкой, романтичной и женственной теперь обязывает мода! А что же было до этого? До этого были джинсы, спорт и гипер-оверсайз. Джинсы есть и сейчас, скажете вы. Да, но давайте посмотрим на них: тонны цветочной вышивки, оборки, банты, завышенная талия и другой силуэт (бум по бойфрендам прошёл, хотя любовь к ним у многих осталась). Сейчас немного сложно найти однотонную вещь в магазине. Даже на обычных рубашках и свитерах красуются цветочные орнаменты.

После недели высокой моды обозначился очередной тренд: прозрачные ткани и голые платья. И эти платья подразумевают только одну часть нижнего белья (нижнюю), чтобы демонстрировать все остальное. Но вы не подумайте, все выглядит очень прилично и по-настоящему красиво, ведь украшено камнями, аппликациями, причудливой и даже сказочной вышивкой, драпировками. Чуть ближе к лету и теплу и этот тренд нашёл своих поклонниц, слегка видоизменившись в масс-маркете. Прозрачные платья на любой вкус предлагалось носить на любой случай и аутфит (буквально). Такая вещь носилась поверх других платьев, комплектов с юбками или брюками. По сути, предмет бессмысленный, но он добавлял такую изюминку, романтичность и эфемерность в образы, что остановиться скупать все сетчатое и прозрачное было очень тяжело (красота то такая!).

Далее следовал бум на юбки-плиссе, причём любой длины ниже колена. Разлетающиеся складки летящей ткани ниспадают с талии и выглядят до невозможности женственными, особенно когда развеваются по ветру. Теперь по одной штуке имеется в гардеробе у каждой девушки, а у некоторых по 2-3 и больше. Давайте скажем спасибо Саре Бернар и Айседоре Дункан, ведь именно они впервые надели плиссированные юбки и платья на выход (до этого такое носили только дома).

К слову, не только этот предмет гардероба стали носить вне дома: дизайнеры так увлеклись (или может разленились?), что повытаскивали на улицы и на свет все, что только можно. Сначала носили атласные пижамы и утонченные комбинации, а после и вовсе решили выставить напоказ самое драгоценное: лифы и кружевные бра, а также корсеты надевались поверх любых топов, рубашек и платьев.

Март вообще прошел под девизом всего розового и всевозможных сочетаний розового, красного и фиолетового. Везде в глянце писали про маленькое красное платье взамен чёрного, а судя по тотал pink лукам розовый стал новым чёрным. И именно его сочетали со всеми остальными цветами или, что ещё лучше, оттенками розового. Вслед за мировыми подиумами и российские дизайнеры то и дело выпускали розовых пантер (не буквально, конечно). Тот же тренд проследовал и в макияж: тени цвета фламинго и июльского заката появились у всех марок и скупались со страшной скоростью.

 

А что касается аксессуаров, год (вернее, полгода) до них был особо богат: размеры сумочек все уменьшались, новые формы и способы их украсить все появлялись. Мюли и каблуки-рюмки, балетки с завязками и бантами (банты это вообще отдельный тренд и разговор), крупные серьги с цветными камнями, платки и банданы вместо аксессуаров, многослойные ожерелья и даже береты (о-ля-ля).

Все вместе создаёт крайне приятную картинку и надежду на то, что женщины продолжат оставаться женщинами, облачаясь в такую гипертрофированную романтичность. Потому что в противном случае начинается не самая лучшая перекройка общества, где женщины меньше следят за собой и все чаще носят серую униформу (джинсы, толстовки, кроссовки), а мужчины не просто усиленно следят за собой и подбирают ботинки к цвету клетки на пиджаке, но и начинают носить женские вещи: юбки, платья, каблуки, аксессуары… Может, это все из-за недостатка таких вещей на девушках? И наши вечные спасители решили спасти мир и в этот раз — красотой, — восстановив гендерный баланс. Многие в погоне за своими правами на благо женского (и вообще всего) общества совершенно позабыли обо всем остальном, включая свой внешний вид, что теперь топят и нас, и себя на корабле под названием «феминизм». Нет, мы не критикуем их труд и борьбу за свои (и наши) права, мы всего лишь хотим, чтобы они не забывали в этой бешеной погоне о том, кто они на самом деле. Общество устало от постоянного завоевывания и женщина хочет побыть просто собой в красивой одежде. Будь то заваленная рюшами и бантами блуза или почти прозрачное платье. Мода услышала эти тихие крики о помощи и пытается сделать все возможное, не скидывая с весов и грубость, и оверсайз, и уличный стиль. Хотя, быть может, это мода тихо кричит о помощи и просит нас быть женственными? Главное, вовремя услышать и поменять курс.


Текст — Анастасия Леушкина

Фото — street style vogue, adam katz sinding/le21femme, инстаграм.

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