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Молодой ювелирный бизнес: интервью с создателем бренда avgvst Наталией Брянцевой

Самая вдохновляющая история о том, как в середине возраста круто поменять свою жизнь. Наталия училась на экономиста, раньше работала в рекламном агентстве, каждый день ходила в офис, а потом нашла себе мастерскую и открыла свой ювелирный  бизнес.

Наталия, прежде всего, хочу сказать, что ваши украшения покорили с первого взгляда на лукбук! Казалось бы, очередная марка минималистичных украшений, все уже придумано, многие бренды похожи друг на друга. Что можно сделать еще? Вы пошли дальше, создали украшения для тех, кто их не носит (узнаю себя). Как вы придумали этот слоган, почему решили использовать именно такой концепт?

Спасибо, я рада, что коллекции понравились. Я сама девушка, которая украшения не носит, и в первую очередь ориентировалась на свои потребности. Тут фокус в том, что украшения носить хочется, но не хочется чрезмерно себя украшать и декорировать. Поэтому в наших украшениях нет сложносочиненых форм. Важны вы и то, что говорите вы, а не ваши серьги.

Мне кажется, это сейчас очень востребовано. Среди всех минималистичных брендов украшений вы обладаете своей уникальностью и неповторимостью. Очень с вами согласна: украшения должны дополнять и подчеркивать нашу индивидуальность и личность, а не перетягивать на себя все внимание.

Расскажите о том, как начали заниматься ювелирным делом и когда приняли решение о создании своего бренда. Как долго вы искали себя? Сколько времени ушло на создание первой коллекции? 

Я работала креативным директором в рекламном агентстве: это производство электронных писем и идей. В какой-то момент захотелось поделать что-то руками. Меня грязная работа в мастерской никогда не страшила. Поэтому я пришла в ближайшую к офису мастерскую. Я долго-долго уговаривала и, в итоге, меня взяли в ученики. Почти 2 года все свое свободное время я проводила там. Свои первые украшения я создавала, вдохновившись природой, в основном, ботаникой. Когда у тебя не отработана технология, неровные, шероховатые объекты – это отличный способ спрятать нехватку мастерства. Потом украшения стали более пуристскими и геометричными, а природная тема в итоге ушла совсем.

Почему вы выбрали такое название, с чем оно должно ассоциироваться у покупателей?

Август – это месяц моего рождения, любимое мамино стихотворение у Пастернака, а еще очень звучное и пахучее слово.

Действительно, даже запахло чем-то таким свежим и абсолютно летним. Но в то же время и немного осенним. Магическая атмосфера…

Я понимаю, что вы свежий бренд, только входите в раж, но был ли такой момент, когда вам хотелось все бросить на полпути, забросить ювелирное дело, марку, переключиться на что-то другое? Когда казалось, что ничего не получится, люди не оценят ваших дизайнерских идей, вы прогорите, а может и еще что похуже? Или же вы всегда были уверены в своих начинаниях и силах, в том, что у вас все получится?

Мы развиваемся очень постепенно, естественно, без сторонних финансовых вливаний. Никогда не делаем ничего «на вырост». То есть мы не рискуем товарными запасами, кредитами или высокой арендой. Новую коллекцию мы всегда тестируем в наших магазинах перед производством большой партии. Пока получается не нервничать. Конечно, у меня бывают личные переживания по поводу успешности меня как дизайнера, я всегда недовольна результатом своих творческих усилий, но вроде бы уже научилась с этим справляться. Порой не нужно относиться к себе слишком серьезно.

Есть ли у вас любимчики? Какое украшение (или украшения) ваше самое любимое из всех коллекций? 

Новая коллекция всегда самая любимая. Сейчас мой фаворит – это моносерьга «Комета» и подвеска-звезда из совместной коллекции с Протеем Теменом.

Расскажите, как проходит процесс создания коллекции? От вдохновения и идеи до пробы, реализации  и продажи? Как много человек трудится над каждой коллекцией? Вообще на сколько коллекций вперед вы приблизительно уже распределили свои идеи у себя в голове, есть какие-то наметки?

 Мы находимся в постоянной работе, и обычно внимание распределяется между несколькими коллекциями. Не менее 2-3 новых коллекций находятся в работе одновременно. Иногда сначала появляется одно-два украшения, мы их называем первенцами коллекции. Я смотрю, работает ли идея, как смотрится закрепка и правильно ли выбраны размеры. После вносятся изменения, и эти первые украшения-тесты разрастаются в коллекцию из 9-12 предметов. Некоторые образцы не вырастают в коллекцию, так и остаются единичными экземплярами. Такие штучные вещи можно купить в нашем флагманском магазине в Екатеринбурге. Над коллекцией трудится не менее 10 человек, начиная с меня и первоначальной идеи, и заканчивая 3D-модельером и полировщиком, а также специалистом по гальванике. Эти ребята и придают изделию финальный вид.

Какой ваш самый большой страх касательно бренда avgvst?

Что он станет слишком массовым. Не хочется терять свою уникальность и камерную августовскую атмосферу.

У вас уже была коллаборация с Аленой Долецкой. С кем бы еще вам хотелось поработать?

Еще была коллаборация с художником Протеем Теменом. Мои желания по поводу новых коллабораций слишком смелые, поэтому я о них умолчу (да, это секрет).

Какая ваша мечта? Чего вы хотите достигнуть с брендом AVGVST? Каким вы видите его в дальнейшем? Может, российским Cartier  или Tiffany?

Нет, это не наш путь ни в коем случае. Я хочу его видеть ювелирным ACNE или ювелирным CELINE.

Планируете ли расширять ассортимент: часы, диадемы, броши…?

Диадемы для девушек, которые не носят диадемы? Я бы сделала коллекцию белых рубашек. Кстати, жду предложений от одежных брендов!

Какой совет вы могли бы дать девушкам (да и мужчинам тоже) при выборе ювелирных украшений: на что обращать внимание, как подбирать размеры и модели? 

Девушки, выбирайте украшения для себя, а не для вашего мужчины.


Текст — Анастасия Леушкина

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