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Монгольские охотники

Сегодня мы публикуем трэвел-впечатления Николая Бондарева: путешественник рассказывает о Монголии. Стране беркутов, охотников и свободы. Если вы думаете, что в Монголии скучно и не на что смотреть, просто прочитайте эту статью. А заодно оцените пятиминутный фильм Николая, он завораживающий.


Наша дорога из России в Монголию пролегала через места удивительной красоты и энергетики — Алтай. Регион славится потрясающими пейзажами, горными реками и сотнями легенд. Но не Алтайские пейзажи были нашей целью..

Эти семьи этнических казахов живут в отдалении от цивилизации, но в тесной близости к традициям и обрядам, многим из которых не одна сотня лет. С первых секунд знакомства охотники производят незабываемое впечатление — детализация и красота костюмов, тренированные лошади, беркуты и их хозяева посреди степи, обильно посыпаемой первым сильным снегопадом создавали ощущение, что я перенесся на несколько веков назад, в совершенно другой мир.

Умение охотиться с беркутом передавалось от отца к сыну и было доступно не каждому. Возможно, это еще одна причина, по которой этот вид охоты уходит в прошлое. И все же отношения птицы и человека особые, они строятся на основе равенства. Хозяин не считает беркута своей собственностью. Поэтому лет через 10 – 12 совместной охоты беркутчи обязательно отпускает птицу на волю. Дальше у каждого будет своя дорога.

Охота с беркутом дело не простое, даже чтобы удержать такую птицу на руке нужно приложить немало усилий. К тому же настоящий беркутчи должен быть очень смелым. Ведь это далеко не домашний питомец, а хищная птица.

Прежде чем приручить беркута, нередко хозяин страдает от его нападок. Хищная птица может серьезно ранить человека. Обычно беркута берут из дикой природы, как только он начинает летать. Сначала учат сидеть на руке, затем откликаться на зов хозяина.

В течение охотничьего сезона, который начинается в феврале и длится до начала лета, опытный беркутчи и птица, в среднем могут поймать 50 или 60 лис, пару рысей и 5 волков. Беркуты редко терпят неудачу при ловле добычи.

Природа сделала из беркута превосходного хищника. У птицы чрезвычайно острое зрение и невероятная скорость. Во время охоты беркут может увидеть зайца на расстоянии двух километров и преследовать жертву со скоростью более 300 км в час. Знаменитый нахмуренный взгляд птицы так же появился неспроста. Надбровные дуги защищают его от яркого света и пыли.

В первую очередь беркута приучают садиться на руку и на специальную подставку, которая станет его обычным местом. Когда орел привыкнет к руке беркутчи, охотник подолгу ходит с ним пешком или выезжает верхом, чтобы птица приучалась оставаться спокойной при длительных выездах и пеших походах. Потом беркута заносят в дом, берут на многолюдные сборища, в гущу скота, на площадку, где резвятся дети. Постепенно птица привыкает к людям, к шуму, не пугается лая собак, криков скотины. Развитие подобных навыков – азбука дрессировки.

Ее следующий этап – специальная выучка. Беркута знакомят с различными сигналами связи, приучают возвращаться на зов хозяина, кружить над определенным местом, садиться по знаку в центр скопища людей или скота. Потом настает очередь приманки, с помощью которой учат захватывать добычу. Упорной тренировкой у беркута закрепляются охотничьи навыки, развивается сообразительность. Хотя орел от природы и обладает достаточной мощью, без должной выучки на хищника попросту нападать не станет и постарается увильнуть от схватки.

Увлекшись дрессировкой, беркутчи не забывает и о другом немаловажном аспекте успехов своего питомца – он должен быть сильнее противника. И потому охотник внимательно следит за его физическим состоянием, контролирует вес, развитость ног и грудной клетки.

Мастерство беркутчи – многогранное искусство, полное таинственных секретов. Но главные слагаемые, которые помогают человеку переломить гордость властителя небес, – это терпение, настойчивость, глубокое знание природы и, конечно же, опыт.

На охоту беркутчи выходили и поодиночке, и группой. Они прекрасно знали повадки любого степного животного, места его обитания и сезонной охоты, время появления приплода и особенности рациона. Идя по следу, охотник заранее предвидел, где зверь притаился, откуда может напасть, как станет хитрить, путая след, и как будет защищаться. Охотничий промысел требовал немалого опыта, храбрости и упорства.

 

Кочевники – вольнолюбивые дети природы – видели в этом занятии не только добычу трофеев. Казахское слово саят объемно и многозначно, оно как бы сводит воедино три разных понятия: охоту, соревнование и отдых.

Таким, по сути, и был салбурын – массовая коллективная охота, которая устраивалась как торжественное мероприятие и сопровождалась праздничной атрибутикой. Салбурыном обычно руководили опытные беркутчи. В охоте принимали участие мергены (меткие стрелки), загонщики, владельцы борзых, всевозможные добровольные помощники, а чтобы было веселее, к охотникам примыкали музыканты и певцы, сказители старинных преданий и люди, знающие толк в шутке. Ставили юрту на берегу речки в гористой местности, где вдоволь зверья и птицы, и развлекались, чередуя охотничьи вылазки веселым отдыхом – с песнями, шутками и байками у костра.

Отправляясь на промысел, беркутчи облачали своих питомцев в специальное снаряжение. Когда желаемая добыча оказывалась на доступном расстоянии, один из них сдергивал с головы своего орла колпачок и подбрасывал его в сторону удаляющейся жертвы. Остальные, уступив дорогу мчащемуся всаднику, ожидали момента, когда смогут показать собственное искусство.


Текст, фото — Николай Бондарев

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