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Многослойность: в чем секрет тренда

Многослойность — идеальный тренд в переходное межсезонье, когда прогнозы погоды часто вызывают сомнения. Дождь, легкий минус, сильный плюс — предугадать невозможно. В это время пригодится умение правильно наслаивать материалы и фактуры, как девушкам, так и мужчинам.


В 70-е годы XX века случился мощный толчок тренда, который сразу закрепился в моде на несколько десятилетий. Эпоха хиппи с ее неприятием мира таким, каков он есть, подтолкнула молодежь к самовыражению в одежде. Так и пошло: сарафаны сочетали с водолазками, блузы надевали под сарафаны, а шляпы — на платки. Это выглядело вычурно и неуместно, зато привлекало внимание. Хиппи говорили всем своим образом: я не такой, как все.

Вторая волна развития тренда пришлась на середину 80-х — начало 90-х и ассоциировалась с зарождением и ростом стиля гранж. Законодателями моды здесь выступила рок-группа Nirvana (солист Курт Кобейн). Гранж, в основе которого и лежала многослойность, превратилась в культурную революцию. Она перевернула привычные представления о моде. Юбка, надетая поверх брюк, несколько джемперов разных палитр, микс из футболки, джемпера и куртки разной длины, небрежно выступавших друг из-под друга… Все это было протестом против моды, который сам превратился в моду.

Коллекция Марка Джейкобса, представленная в 1992 для Perry Ellis, окончательно закрепила позиции многослойности в качестве основного тренда на годы вперед. Молодой дизайнер создал не поддающиеся точному описанию сложносочиненные и скомбинированные между собой комплекты, которые трудно было понять не искушенному миром моды человеку. И не прогадал: так началась и карьера Джейкобса, основавшего собственный бренд в 1993, и триумфальное шествие тренда на слои.

Почему же многослойность приобрела такую популярность? Причин множество, но главное, что здесь в игру вступает безграничное воображение. А значит, даже простые сочетания раскрываются новыми красками, а обыденность становится выражением собственного «я».

Казалось бы, если воображение правит балом, то можно попросту забыть о правилах и миксовать все, на что упадет глаз. Но не тут-то было: правила существуют, и им стоит следовать. Иначе получится эффект капусты.

  • Все слои одежды должны быть разной длины. Так, решив под рубашку надеть футболку, а заправить все это косухой, помните о длине, иначе будет комично.

  • Теперь о силуэте. Если вам повезло с фигурой, смело доставайте из тайников гардероба все, что хотели забыть, и смешивайте, помня о фактуре и цвете (о них ниже). Если же с фигурой не все так хорошо, не огорчайтесь. Главное — найти сильные стороны, выгодно их подчеркнув. 
  • Игра с фактурами — сложная вещь. Многослойность приветствует игру на контрасте, предлагая сочетать грубость кожи и мягкость кашемира в одном образе. Начните с тонких материалов, слой за слоем наращивая темпы, и завершите все винилом или денимом. Многие дизайнеры пошли еще дальше, усложнив образы изысканной отделкой: так воланы и рюши плотно вошли в коллекции модных домов, раз за разом становясь трендами в новых сезонах. 

  • При выборе принтов не впадайте в безумие и не пытайтесь собрать все и сразу. Для начинающих рекомендуем не перегружать образ, начав с одного доминирующего, например, неброской геометрии: полоска, круги, овалы – ваши лучшие друзья в неравной схватке с новыми веяниями моды. Более избирательным и искушенным можем посоветовать попробовать поиграть с флорой и фауной, соединив их в одном look’е.
  • Если игра на контрасте отлично работает при выборе фактуры, то с цветом все абсолютно противоположно. Яркие броские оттенки не стоит сочетать друг с другом (если, конечно, не хотите шокировать окружающих своим образом). Да, дизайнеры призывают играть в радугу и использовать множество цветов, но помните, правило сочетания трех оттенков еще никто не отменял.

Это только кажется, что многослойность — простое сочетание подходящих под настроение фактур, материалов и фасонов. На самом деле многослойность — настоящее искусство, перешагнув черту которого можно впасть в крайность  и попасть в нелепый мир под названием «сто одежек».


Текст — Андрей Садов

Фото — JONATHAN DANIEL PRYCE, Collage Vintage, Pinterest

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