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Эдинбург. В чем шарм шотландской столицы

С чем у вас ассоциируется Великобритания? С красными двухэтажными автобусами, королевской семьей и туманами? Или, может, вам на ум приходят домики из темного кирпича, волынка и тающие во рту shortbread cookies? Шотландия вот что вспоминает Дарья Денисенко, когда слышит словосочетание «далекая Великобритания». Представляем рассказ путешественника об Эдинбурге — столице королевства.

Шотландия — это другой мир. Сказочный — совсем как в «Гарри Поттере», исторический — словно в «Игре Престолов», немного игрушечный — как в древних сказках на гэльском. В Шотландии родились великие: Роберт Стивенсон, Артур Конан Дойль, Вальтер Скотт. А Эдинбург собрал все лучшее от королевства. Он красивый, гостеприимный и всегда волшебный.

Не верите? Вот вам немного магии: именно в Эдинбурге открыт единственный в мире факультет по изучению паранормальных явлений.

Итак, чем же заняться в столице Шотландии?

Посетить Национальную галерею

Начните с культурного просвещения! В Национальной галерее Шотландии экспозиции Рафаэля, Веласкеса, Рубенса и Боттичелли. Импрессионисты и классики современного искусства, мастера графики и «передвижники» XXI века. Перед самим зданием полюбуетесь на скульптуры: кстати, дойти до Национальной галереи очень просто, она в самом центре города.

Попробовать ириски и shordbread cookies

Оценить деликатесы можно в любом из сувенирных магазинов — продавцы предлагают их бесплатно. Такие лавочки проще всего найти на улице Royal Mile, которая, к слову, гораздо длиннее мили. Свое название улица получила в честь променада королевы: именно такой маршрут особа проходила от дворца до собора.  

Потерять счет времени в Armchair Books

Винтажный книжный магазин — настоящая сокровищница для филологов, эстетов и просто книгоманов. С виду камерный, внутри он таит огромные коллекции книг самых древних годов издания. Пыльные полки, пожелтевшие страницы, золотистые переплеты: кажется, дотронешься до какого-нибудь альбома, а он вдруг распахнет потайную дверь.

Найти подземные улицы Эдинбурга

Во время чумы XVII века в Эдинбурге открылся подземный город, куда свозили всех больных. В течение нескольких лет лабиринт скрытых улиц был закрыт для доступа. Он оброс мифами, которые сейчас рассказывают экскурсантам в музее The Real Mary King’s Close и посетителям вечернего Ghost-tour. Гости вечеров узнают, например, душераздирающую историю в пабе Deacon Brodie’s Tavern. Бар окрестили именем главы торговой гильдии. Днем мужчина работал, а по ночам занимался разбоем — именно его судьба описана в романе Стивенсона «Странная история доктора Джекила и мистера Хайда».

Найти Сердце Мидлотиана на выходе из собора St. Gilles

Локация находится на месте бывшего административного, судебного и налогового центра города. Место курьезное — на него все плюют. Традиция пошла с исторических времен: раньше местные оплевывали точку в знак презрения властям. Сегодня это ритуал: приезжие верят, что благодаря этому вернутся, а горожане, что обретут удачу.

Подняться на Arthur’s Seat

Эдинбург, как и Рим, стоит на семи холмам. На одном из них, самом известном, находятся замок и крепость, а с другого, о котором туристы часто забывают, открываются потрясающие виды. Дорога на высшую точку (251 м) потрясающая: чистая природа, узкие тропы, крутой серпантин. Наверху ощущение, будто стоишь на вершине мира — а внизу игрушечный город среди бескрайних долин. 

Преодолеть 287 ступеней, чтобы подняться на монумент Скотта

Шпиль монумента горожане называют «ракетой, устремленной в небо». Общая высота статуи 61,11 м. Подниматься тяжело, но виды того стоят: совершенно открыточные, такие не забудешь. Сам монумент тоже впечатляет — только расходы на строительство обошлись в 16 154 фунтов (в современном эквиваленте это примерно 712 000 фунтов).

В Шотландии Вальтера Скотта знают не только как писателя, но и просто как значимую историческую фигуру. В 1822 году Георг IV был первым королем с 1620 года, который посетил эту страну. Это было знаменательное событие как для Англии, так и для Шотландии, и значимую роль в нем играет Вальтер Скотт. Именно он придумал одеть Георга IV в килт — с тех пор тартан стал символом Шотландии.

Исследовать город за пределами Castle Hill

Ограничиваться типичными рекомендациями от авторов путеводителей не стоит. Обязательно погуляйте по нетуристической части города: именно там настоящая кукольная архитектура. Домики с трубами, кафе с харизматичными шотландцами и много зелени. Отправные точки — Circus Lane и Dean Village. А дальше просто гуляйте, ищите вкуснейшие булочки scones в кафе Peter’s Yard и общайтесь с местными.

Прогуляться по городу под дождем

В Эдинбурге всегда ветрено и часто дождливо. Такая погода стоит 365 дней в году. Берите зонт, одевайтесь потеплее, надевайте перчатки и просто наслаждайтесь атмосферой. Именно в это время Эдинбург предстает настоящим: кажется, пока вы мирно гуляете, вас преследуют призраки, а в Замке готовят очередной заговор.

Взять тур по Highlands

Идеальный вариант — взять машину и отправиться в тур по природным красотам. Определенный маршрут не нужен: куда ни взглянешь, везде необыкновенно. Хочется остановиться, поймать мгновение, насладиться идеальным пейзажем, сфотографировать.

Хорошим вариантом будут двух- или трехдневные туры, включающие Isle of Skye. Там виды совсем фантастические — в том числе и легендарный glenninfan viaduct, который перенес Гарри Поттера в страну волшебства.

Как альтернативу рассмотрите путешествие на автобусы. Так вы увидите и живописные пейзажи, и озеро Лох-Несс (кстати, «лох» в переводе с шотландского и есть «озеро»). 

Три главные точки Highlands

Glencoe — это место часто называют «долиной слез»: в 1692 году во время междоусобной войны здесь были убиты порядка 70 членов известного клана МакДональдо за неверность новому королю.

Ben Nevis — самая высокая точка Британских остров. 260 дней из 365 в горах там сильные бури и ливни. Осадков выпадает в семь раз больше, чем в Эдинбурге или Лондоне.

Loch Ness — озеро с абсолютно черной водой, такое огромное, что в нем могло бы уместиться все население планеты в десятикратном размере. Первые упоминания о монстре Несси, датируются 6 в. н. э.: ученик настоятеля Колумба был до смерти искалечен неведомым жителем водоёма. Новая волна легенд началась в конце XIX века, когда в безветренную солнечную погоду на озере затонуло судно.

За последний век сотни исследователей и энтузиастов искали чудовище. В интернете и сейчас гуляют рассказы-опровержения. Один из них появился совсем недавно: он развенчивает миф о том, что ученым посчастливилось запечатлеть на фото монстра. Эксперты доказали, что на снимке только чучело-декорация к фильму о Шерлоке Холмса 60-х годов.

А вот вам напоследок забавные факты о Шотландии:

— В этой стране говорят на трех языках: английском, Scotts и Gaelic (кельтский язык, на котором изначально говорят шотландцы);

— В 2014 году на референдуме 55% жителей Шотландии проголосовали против выхода из состава Соединённого Королевства. В 2016 шотландский регион отдал большинство голосов за то, чтобы остаться в Евросоюзе;

— Национальное животное Шотландии — единорог;

— Именно в Шотландии изобрели телефон, пенициллин, асфальт и логарифмы;

— В Шотландии живет наибольший процент всех рыжих людей в мире (13%).


Текст, фото — Дарья Денисенко

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