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Колыбель человечества: как самостоятельно отправиться в Южную Африку

Мы продолжаем публиковать рассказы путешественников, которые вдохновят вас на поездку в Европу, Азию и Америку. Сегодня мы предоставляем слово отчаянной девушке Анне Демидовой: она отправилась в Африку, чтобы провести там медовый месяц. И ни разу об этом не пожалела.

В моих дерзких планах увидеть весь мир идея поехать в ЮАР не опережала мечты о  Новой Зеландии, Австралии, Японии, Исландии и еще как минимум десятке сказочно красивых стран ровно до тех пор, пока мне не поступило предложение выйти замуж, а вместе с ним, как водится, отправиться в медовый месяц. Время от времени вращая глобус в поисках лучшего места для начала семейной жизни, мы с тогда еще будущим мужем никак не могли определиться с конечным направлением. Однажды я, перебирая в инстаграме геотеги завидных путешественников, наткнулась на серию кадров одного фотографа, менявших некое стереотипное, сформировавшееся еще в детстве на основе небезызвестной сказки представление об Африке. Высокая контрастность присутствовала не только в изображениях, но и в целостном видении этой незнакомой мне страны: от знойных пустынь до густых тропических лесов, от шумных водопадов до спрятанных в облаках горных вершин, от переполненных мегаполисов до безлюдных пляжей – через призму чужого объектива я видела то, о чем умалчивает интернет. Тогда и было принято бесповоротное решение отправиться в самую южную точку африканского континента.

Первым делом мы обнаружили, что перелет в ЮАР немногим дороже, скажем, аэрофлотовских билетов до Парижа. Следующим пунктом стали отели: один только booking.com предлагал более 13 000 вариантов размещения по всей стране со средним ценником на комфортное жилье в пределах 100 евро. Пазл продолжал складываться и дальше: в марте этого года обладатели российских паспортов получили право на безвизовый въезд в Южно-Африканскую республику сроком до 90 дней. Друзья и знакомые, однако, не скрывали своего удивления, узнав, что мы «дикарями» едем в столь экзотичное место.

За неделями шли месяцы, а я продолжала заносить на карту все «обязательные к посещению» локации. «Моя» Африка собралась из сотен снимков, и я все ждала, когда увижу эти снимки в отражении глаз такого же безумца, решившего начать ханимун (от англ. honeymoon – медовый месяц – прим. авт.) в городе  с дурной славой – Йоханнесбурге. И вот настал день, когда мы отправились навстречу неизвестности. Концентрация адреналина увеличивалась по мере сокращения количества километров до криминального центра ЮАР.

Приземлились, прошли паспортный контроль, с опаской поменяли первую пару сотен евро на рэнды (южноафриканский рэнд – национальная ден. единица ЮАР – прим. авт.).

Сумерки задушили город в темных объятиях, пока мы доехали до отеля. Нас встретила добродушная хозяйка, которая за широкой белозубой улыбкой прятала объяснения насчет неработающего интернета и по-зимнему холодной комнаты. Мы, изможденные долгой дорогой, вызвали Uber, добрались до ближайшего ресторана, отмеченного звездочкой на нашей карте, и оказались в привычной обстановке большого города, где обсуждения планов на вечер смешались с ароматами ожидающих блюд в тарелках снующих официантов. В тот вечер обжигающее предвкушение нового дня в одном из опаснейших городов мира мы запивали красным южноафриканским вином – по цене московского американо.

Следующее утро началось с аренды машины. Мы взяли скромный Ford и, выехав на шоссе, первые минут 15 провели в тишине, прикрывающей еще не отпустившее нас напряжение. Ужасающие легенды про Йоханнесбург таяли подобно миражам: от всех прочих городов этот город отличался лишь… отсутствием «белых» прохожих на улицах (светлокожие люди передвигаются здесь исключительно на авто). ЮАР называют радужной страной: под этой метафорой скрывается многонациональность общества, которое и сейчас преодолевает разделения, восходящие к эпохе апартеида. Я не хочу заполнять пространство сухими историческими справками, но Африка хранит в себе удивительную историю, про которую, увы, не рассказывают в школе.

За три дня, проведенных в Йоханнесбурге, мы успели всем сердцем полюбить Южную Африку. Открытые, доброжелательные люди, аутентичные рестораны и стильные кофейни, уникальная близость с природой, доступные цены – мы ровным счетом не нашли здесь ни одного недостатка и уехали с твердым намерением вернуться вновь.

Далее в нашем кропотливо составленном маршруте значился Национальный парк Крюгера, где, подобно журналисту National Geographic, можно понаблюдать за животными в их естественной среде обитания. Сложно уместить в несколько слов все те эмоции, которые испытываешь, когда видишь слона на расстоянии вдвое меньше его хобота, или преграждающего тебе путь носорога, или вальяжно идущего под вспышки фотокамер, словно по красной дорожке, льва. В такие мгновения чувство благодарности за возможность лицезреть обнаженную красоту природы становится сильнее детского восторга.

По мере приближения к океану мы объездили, пожалуй, все самые колоритные уголки северо-восточной части ЮАР: третий по величине каньон в мире Blyde River Canyon в окружении скал-близнецов Three Rondavels; засветившуюся в фильме «Наверное, боги сошли с ума» смотровую площадку God’s window; выточенное водой творение природы с забавным названием «Ухабы удачи Бурка» (Bourke’s Luck Potholes); Драконовы горы (Drakensberg), окутанные клубами дыма, будто выпускаемого из ноздрей спящего дракона; безмолвное озеро Sterkfontein Dam и небольшие заповедники, где можно, например, поиграть с тигром-малышом. Так мы добрались до шумного Дурбана, чей соленый воздух предвещал встречу с океаном – неистовым и вольным. За неделю Африка настолько избаловала нас видами, что следующий отрезок пути до Ист-Лондона показался скучным, пока мы преодолевали почти семь сотен километров, чтобы вновь увидеть сливающуюся с небом водную гладь. Приехав в национальный парк Тситсикамма (Tsitsikamma), мы в очередной раз отказывались верить своим глазам: в этой стране было «слишком» красиво. Хотелось остаться в каком-нибудь одиноком домике на берегу, чтобы по утрам пить кофе, слушая, как свирепые волны обрушиваются на скалы, рассыпая мириады брызг. Однако на карте значилось еще несколько городков, которые нельзя было пропустить.

Мы двинулись дальше по знаменитой «Дороге садов» (Garden Route) – в сторону прекрасной Найсны, где со смотровой Knysna Head впервые довелось увидеть кита, неохотно показывавшего брюхо из-под воды и где в районе Плеттенберг-Бэй мы гуляли по деревянным помостам, проложенным по бархатисто-зеленым утесам. Неподалеку от Джорджа прокатились по Montagu Pass – узкой, словно затерянной среди изумрудных гор дорожке, где можно насладиться уединением, слушая тишину. В Мосселбай мы застали миграцию дельфинов: их бесчисленные стаи, синхронно выпрыгивая из воды, стремительно уносились прочь, скрываясь в закатных сумерках. На следующий день, миновав страусовую ферму в Оудсхорне, добрались до пещер Канго, где природа демонстрирует человеку свои сотканные тысячелетиями труды. Потом живописная трасса R62 привела нас в «столицу белых акул» Гансбай, где мы даже забронировали сеанс дайвинга с этими хищными рыбами, однако неспокойный океан поменял наши планы, и мы отправились в Херманус – одно из лучших мест в мире для наблюдений за китами. Здесь и правда эти гиганты резвятся в 30 метрах, собирая десятки фотографов в ожидании лучшего кадра.

Так мы проехали через всю страну, но нам еще предстояло увидеть «сердце» ЮАР – Кейптаун.

Кейптаун, как и полагается столице, не похож на другие города своего региона. Здесь сразу ощущается ритм мегаполиса и бросается в глаза этническое многообразие. Только представьте, что здесь можно навестить пингвинов на пляже Болдерс,  можно добраться до Мыса Доброй надежды, который не удалось обогнуть «Летучему голландцу», можно с вертолета увидеть остров Роббен, где в заключении провел часть своей жизни Нельсон Мандела, а можно достать до облаков, поднявшись на вершину Столовой горы. Чудеса южноафриканской природы гармонично уживаются с «признаками» большого города – популярными ресторанами с листом ожидания в месяц, модными галереями, колоритными кварталами вроде Бо-Каап и дорогими бутиками. Кейптаун стал квинтэссенцией нашего почти 3х-недельного путешествия по совершенно удивительной стране — стране, где сливаются два океана, где летом зима и где национальный женский день отмечают в августе.

Возвращаясь к самому часто задаваемому вопросу про безопасность, скажу, что Африка с неизлечимыми болезнями и жестокими убийствами осталась за чертой, которой современное общество пытается отгородиться от общечеловеческих проблем. В нашем мире, увы, угрозы жизни и здоровью меньше всего зависят от географического положения. Поэтому единственное, чего стоит бояться про ЮАР, — это отсутствия возможности увидеть ее своими глазами.


Текст — Анна Демидова

Фото — Анна Демидова, Jacques Crafford

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