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Раз и навсегда: как влюбиться в Нью-Йорк с первого взгляда

Попасть в Нью-Йорк для меня всегда было мечтой, которую, как казалось, невозможно осуществить. Усердно постигая довольно не простую грамматику английского языка в одном университете, я все же надеялся, что когда-нибудь окажусь на улицах Большого яблока, погуляю по до боли знакомым по фильмам местам и познакомлюсь с этим городом. Городом, где царит настоящая свобода…

Международный аэропорт имени Джона Кеннеди каждый день приветствует сотни тысяч приезжающих в Нью-Йорк. Именно с запутанного лабиринта огромных терминалов, где за кажущимся хаосом стоит отработанная система, начинается знакомство с городом. Кто-то приезжает сюда в качестве туриста, кто-то — по работе, кто-то ищет в мегаполисе спасения, кто-то — уединения, кто-то – себя. Но всех объединяет главное — безграничная любовь к огромному муравейнику, который носит гордое название New York City.

Конечно, из аэропорта добраться до Манхеттена можно на такси: желтые кэбы с ветерком готовы домчать вас до центра. Однако помните: Нью-Йорк отличается плотным трафиком, плюс, поездка на такси может оказаться затратным удовольствием из-за платных дорог и многочисленных налогов. Почувствовать себя местным жителем можно спустившись в метро: от каждого терминала аэропорта ходит Air Train, курсирующий до станции Jamaica. Оттуда легко доберетесь практически до любого района. Для тех, кто не любит грязное метро Нью-Йорка (а оно действительно такое), а финансы поют романсы, предлагаем воспользоваться автобусами, которые довезут вас до центрального вокзала — Grand Central Terminal: 40-45 минут при неплотной загруженности дорог, и вы на месте.

Каждый сам решает, с чего начинать знакомство с новым городом. Для меня оно стартовало с Central Park. Центральный парк — оазис умиротворения в сердце мегаполиса, где после суматохи и бешенства, творящихся на улицах, где уровень шума, кажется, превышает все допустимые нормы, по-настоящему чувствуешь единение с природой и самим собой. Парк поражает размахом и красотой: здесь все кажется таким родным и знакомым, что невольно возникает эффект déjàvu. Наслаждаясь тишиной, которой буквально пронизан Центральный парк, можно потерять счет времени и, пусть и ненадолго, но забыть о тех проблемах, которые нужно решить, покинув границы волшебного мира Central Park.

Time Square — душа мегаполиса, одна из главных улиц Нью-Йорка, оживленно гудящая в любое время дня и ночи. Именно здесь, находясь в лучах тысяч прожекторов и рекламных баннеров, в полном смысле ощущаешь ту свободу и независимость, которая с рождения в головах у американцев и которой так не хватает нам.

Ходить в Нью-Йорке можно, да и нужно, только с высоко поднятой головой — от высоты небоскребов захватывает дух. Вот самый известный 103-этажный небоскреб Америки Empire State Building, на смотровую площадку которого очередь может растянуться на несколько кварталов. Вот Top of the Rock, откуда открывается величественная панорама на город, включая Центральный парк и собственно Empire State Building. А вот и выполненный в стиле ар-деко Chrysler Building, изначально планировавший стать самым высоким зданием Нью-Йорка.

Любителей искусства Нью-Йорк также впечатлит. Для ценителей прекрасного готовы распахнуть свои двери Metropolitan Museum of Art, Музей современного искусства, Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, International Center of Photography и многие другие. В знаменитый the Met с его огромными коллекциями я так и не попал. Зато честно отстоял в очереди за входным билетом в МоМА, променяв классическое искусство на современное. Правда, не могу сказать, что современность в духе супрематизма Малевича или сюрреализма Кирико стала хотя бы чуточку мне ближе, но галочку в своём to-do-list я поставил смело.

Смешаться с толпой зевак на Пятой Авеню, прогуляться по Бродвею, затеряться на улочках фешенебельного Сохо и там же столкнуться лицом к лицу с известным актером или моделью, съездить на юг Бруклина на Брайтон-Бич и полюбоваться безграничными просторами Атлантического океана или же соприкоснуться с тишиной в огромном мегаполисе у мемориала 9/11 на территории Всемирного торгового центра — в Каменных джунглях так легко потерять себя от несметного количества развлечений, которые может предложить этот город.

Вообще все здесь гипертрофированно и гиперболизировано до немыслимых пределов, поэтому слово «самый» вы слышите на каждом углу. Самый-самый ресторан, самый высокий небоскрёб, самая свободная страна… Патриотизм и гордость граждан Соединенных штатов за свою страну не знает границ, может быть, именно поэтому наиболее часто встречающейся атрибут на улицах – американский флаг с 50 звездами, символизирующими число штатов на территории страны.

Наверное, Нью-Йорк и правда тот город, который никогда не спит: пожалуй, единственное исключение — канун Рождества, когда каждый уважающий себя семьянин спешит домой, чтобы, собравшись вместе, в теплой семейной атмосфере снова поверить в чудо. В остальное время город просто переполнен людьми, и уже сложно отличить в тесной толпе идущих прохожих, кто здесь местный, а кто нет. Хотя, приезжая сюда, ты невольно попадаешь в тиски бешеного ритма и невыносимого желания дышать полной грудью, что, ускоряя шаг, пусть и на несколько дней, но становишься полноправным жителем the Big Apple.

Мечты, как известно, сбываются. Хотите — верьте, хотите — нет, но это действительно так. И сейчас, свободно перемещаясь в воздушном пространстве Москвы, – Нью-Йорк, я мечтаю совсем об ином. Но, пожалуй, это уже совсем другая история…  


Текст — Андрей Садов

Фото — Iamgalla, constantism, savant, 212sid, neverclickingthat, 2ndfloorguy, manofhattan, georgechvng

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