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VETEMENTS – история бренда с «wow» эффектом

Помним, как примерно год назад нам попалась статья одного попсового дамского глянца, в котором раскритиковали образ Оли Серябкиной (Группа Serebro) в худи с кадром из «Титаника». Знали бы тогда журналисты, что пишут они о самом популярном сегодня бренде Vetements! И что уже спустя каких-то полгода они будут публиковать фотографии Рианны, Канье Уэста и Ким Кардашьян в «тех самых» худи, но уже с пометкой «супер-модно».

Создатели бренда братья Гвасали говорят, что такого эффекта явно не ожидали. Изначально это был скромный междусобойчик из 4 человек. «Первая коллекция была создана в моей спальне!», — признается Демна. Хотите верьте, хотите нет, но спустя всего 3 сезона бренд номинировали на LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer Prize.

Демна Гвасали родился в советской Грузии, планировал работать в банке. Но жизнь решила иначе. Выпускник Королевской академии изящных искусств в Антверпене после учебы сразу же приступает к работе в Louis Vuitton и Maison Martin Margiela. В 2014 году появляется первая коллекция его собственной марки, а через год Демна становится креативным директором Balenciaga. Но даже этого недостаточно. В этом году дизайнер получил самую престижную награду в индустрии моды — CFDA.

Скромно опуская глаза, Демна признается: «Мы не считаем себя крутыми, мы некрутые, мы просто делаем одежду». Но здесь он, конечно, немного лукавит. Повторить успех Франко Москино и создать постмодернистскую одежду с провокационными принтами, с насмешкой над современной модой, долгое время не решался никто. До тех пор, пока не появился бренд, чье имя – уже ирония, всего лишь «вещи». «Мы не делаем «wow»! «Wow» — это как у  Louis Vuitton, когда идеальный крой, красивая вышивка и футболка стоимостью 1000 евро. Мы делаем одежду. А одежда должна храниться в шкафу, а не в музее», — говорит дизайнер.

Хотел ли того дизайнер или нет, но вместе с «просто одеждой» он создал ореол загадочности и бешеной популярности. Футболки с надписью DHL, несмотря на ограниченный тираж, разлетелись по миру как тбилисские хинкали в туристический сезон. И пусть вас не смущает ценник, это плата за уникальность, которая была прописана финансовым директором, братом дизайнера, Гурамом Гвасали. К чему бы ни прикасалась его рука, все моментально превращается в шоу!

Попасть на показ Vetements –  целая авантюра! Женская коллекция показывается во время Недели высокой моды. Это самое удачное время заманить байеров и опустошить их карманы задолго до показов prêt-à-porter. И даже к коллаборациям дизайнер подходит не так, как все. Сотрудничество с более чем 17 компаниями (начиная с Levi’s и Comme des Garcons — и заканчивая Brioni и Manolo Blahnik), где основной акцент делается на знаковых для брендов вещах. Своего рода проникновение в ДНК, в самую суть.

Ирония иронией, а за плечами молодого Vetements закрепилась слава самого авангардного, самого провокационного, самого модного и просто “самого”. “Я украду Демну” – шутит в своем твиттере Канье. А тем временем молодой и амбициозный парень из Бруклина создает свой бренд «Vetememes» и совершенно не шутит. Демна уклончиво кивает, его эта ситуация лишь забавляет. Смеяться над брендом, который смеется над модой – масло-масляное, но ведь главное, чтобы о тебе говорили. А поводов дизайнер готов подкинуть. Например, создав худи с надписью «Земфира» в честь любимой певицы прямо перед ее концертом, ради которого скромный грузин и приехал в Россию впервые за 25 лет. Или сбежать вместе со всем штатом сотрудников из богемного Парижа в чистый Цюрих. Видите ли, столица моды убивает дух творчества. Хотя признайте, этот дух еще всех переживет.


Текст — Виктория Ромашова

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